Dark Elf Outfit - Closeup By Wampirencja

Korean Designer Modernizes Hanbok Into Casual Outfits

With its vibrant colors and unique silhouette, hanbok, or traditional Korean attire, has often been regarded as one of the most iconic aspects of Korean culture. Up until a century ago, Koreans wore hanbok as everyday clothes to work, school and public outings. The tradition of wearing the elaborate, multi-layered dress eventually faded as Koreans opted for the convenience of Western-style clothing.

Korean designer Hwang Yi-seul, also known as Dew Hwang, is pushing for hanbok to make a comeback with her clothing line Leesle, which specializes in creating casual hanbok that can easily be worn on a daily basis.

Her designs incorporate the empire and A-line silhouettes of traditional hanbok, but are created from quality fabrics, such as cotton, denim and linen, to achieve a clean and modern look. These modernized hanbok dresses are sold in a variety of colors, from soft pastels to bolder tones, and trendy patterns. Buttons, zippers, pockets and elastic waistbands are sewn into the dresses to make it easy and comfortable to wear.

Hwang’s casual hanbok dresses retail anywhere from $100 to $150.

Read full article here.

fruit dragons !

click through to see whats what - fun fact the dragonfruit was the First One made but as i had no plans to make the rest of em at the time theres a noticable difference in quality and size a h h ah a

Handmade Swords - Earil

By Peter Lyon of Weta Workshop

Edition Size: 1

Measurements: blade length 915mm (36"); overall length 1217mm (48"); weight 1.94Kg (4 pounds 4 ounces); balance point 71mm (2.8") along the blade, measured from the shoulder of the blade

The sword has been made especially for the Weta Cave and Weta’s Online Shop to sell to the public. It is similar to late medieval European longswords, but with design flourishes transform it into a piece of art as well. A longsword is light enough and balanced to be used with one hand, but it can also be used two handed for powerful cutting blows. The blade is broad for much of its length, making for strong cuts, but comes to an acute point for effective thrusts, making this a true cut-and-thrust sword.

The individual parts have shapes and detail lines that blend into each other and continue into the next component, so that shapes continue even as the materials change, and the shapes of all the hilt parts draw the eye towards the diamond shaped bosses in the centre of the grip, filled with polished Paua (New Zealand abalone) shell each side. At the same time there is a strong central line through the hilt and along the blade, emphasising the straight and symmetrical shapes of the sword.

This sword has many nautical features which led me to the name, “Aearil”, which in Elvish means “Gleaming Ocean”.

The straight blade is ground from spring steel bar, and has been heat treated to give the best possible combination of toughness and edge hardness. Historically blades were forged into shape and to remove flaws in the steel, but the consistency and high specifications of modern steels mean this is no longer necessary.

The bevelled edge is blunted for safety and display, but could just as easily be sharpened for cutting tests. The tang of the blade is strong and wide, and passes through the cross guard, grip and pommel, and is peened over the end of the pommel for maximum strength.

The cross guard is cut from a block of mild steel. From the centre block it projects along the blade and towards the ends, which are split into a fork. This is an unusual feature which I don’t recall being used on a sword before. The cross is set onto the shoulders of the blade for extra strength and stability, as was done on medieval European swords to prevent the cross becoming loose and rattling through use.

The grip is made of beech wood, covered with leather. Thin cords under the leather create the designs, and the leather has been carefully tooled to fit into all the shapes created by the cords. The grip was mostly drilled out then fitted by heating the tang and burning out the remaining wood for a tight fit, and finally glued in place. It is a two handed grip; the foregrip is straight to give a strong gripping surface, while the waisted shape of the upper grip encourages the second hand to nestle into the inside curves of the pommel.

The mild steel pommel is also a counterweight for the blade. It is shaped somewhat like a fish tail, with curved and recessed faces to add interesting shapes, and also to remove weight and get the best possible balance for the sword overall. The pommel was set tight onto the tapering tang before the end was peened over.

Source: Copyright © 2016 Weta Ltd.

Marchesa S/S 2017

Dennis Basso pre fall 2016

Hello! I'm a self taught artist who wants to get better at shading/lighting and backgrounds especially. But whenever I try to do a background study, I can't break it down and it ends up looking terrible. Do you know of anything that would help?

Hi! I would like to talk a little bit of the thought process behind photo study and the importance of simplicity.

It is really important to break down an image to chunks of value rather than seeing the detail  first, which can lead to over-complicated mush of colors with no constructed value.

These are some of the artists that inspired me to get used to breaking down images in the most simplest way possible:

Notice how super simple and straight-on-point his thumbs are? And this is how his colorscript for Moana looks like:

Zero detail. Yet you have all the information you need!

I personally think these thumb studies are super important to train your eyes to break down an image in values and colors and therefore be able to organize and design your painting better.

One more post from kimono shop “Double Maison”! These are very modern and cute takes on haori (kimono jackets).

Samurai Top Image Row 2 (Left), 3, and 4  Row 2 (Right) Row 5: Left, Right Row 6: Left, Right

Tip for drawing ears

Artist: Unknown